The gastronomy available in the municipality of San Cristóbal de La Laguna reflects the flavours found throughout Tenerife, with papas con mojo, ‘carne de cochino’, and toasted gofio being the most typical dishes. However, the region also boasts unique pastries and other culinary specialties. Notably, the famed ‘Laguneros’ sweets are millefeuille ring pastries filled with angel hair. Among desserts, leche asada, oven-baked cakes and biscuits, and ‘Frangollo’—made from corn flour with raisins, almonds, and honey—are particularly popular in the city’s surrounding neighbourhoods.
Nearly 50 Traditional Culinary Practices Registered as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage
Despite popular belief, the French baguette, couscous, and even Neapolitan pizza are not included in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage lists. Rather than focusing on dishes, these lists recognise cultural practices passed down through generations, many of which are connected to food and drink.
“Traditional culinary practices, whether related to daily life or special occasions, rituals, social customs, or festive events, are an important part of intangible heritage globally,” states Fumiko Ohinata, Secretary of the UNESCO Convention for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. “The lists serve as a recipe book in which we share everything from appetisers to desserts, including various dishes, beverages, and breads… currently, fifty culinary practices are registered, of which eight are multinational,” she adds.
Often when we travel, we not only seek monuments or cultural landmarks, but also a taste of local gastronomy and the restaurants we want to experience. La Laguna boasts a rich culinary tradition, with the historical Casa de Comidas ‘La Valencia’ on La Carrera street.
Traditional Culinary Practices as Valuable Intangible Heritage
Exploring these culinary traditions is truly appetising. The importance of culinary practices is increasingly recognised in the realm of intangible heritage. This includes elements such as the craft of Neapolitan pizzaioli, the culture and craftsmanship of the French baguette, and the knowledge, practices, and traditions associated with the preparation and consumption of couscous shared by Algeria, Morocco, Mauritania, and Tunisia. Additionally, the Mediterranean diet (Cyprus, Croatia, Spain, Greece, Italy, Morocco, and Portugal), traditional Mexican cuisine, the preparation and consumption of Peruvian ceviche, and Haiti’s joumou soup all hold a place in this heritage.
Beyond their cultural significance, these practices promote diverse diets and adequate nutrition for many societies, while also preserving ecosystems and maintaining genetic biodiversity. “Many culinary practices are based on respecting seasonality, using local products, and recycling food scraps. They also create opportunities for exchange, conversation, and dialogue, thereby strengthening social cohesion,” explains Pier Luigi Petrillo, Director of the UNESCO Chair in Intangible Cultural Heritage at the University of Rome Unitelma Sapienza, Italy.
Many Culinary Practices Emphasise Respect for Seasonality and Use of Local Products
A study conducted by this chair from 2018 to 2023 reveals that following the inscription of the Neapolitan pizzaiolo craft on the UNESCO List, courses to learn pizza-making have increased by 65.3%, accredited schools have expanded by 33.5% (with 85% located outside Italy), and the participation in related associations rose by 9.5%.
Luis Benito García, Director of the Asturian Cider Chair and Professor of Contemporary History at the University of Oviedo, Spain, believes that registering Asturian cider culture “will promote its integration across all educational levels. Furthermore, as it is linked to a productive sector, it will enhance the cultivation of apple trees, which could retain young people in rural areas, thereby protecting a sustainable, artisanal, and family-based industry.”
To expand on this, UNESCO is developing an International Atlas of Food Heritage and a digital platform for its safeguarding, promotion, and transmission to future generations. Funded by Saudi Arabia, this project aims to highlight the diversity of food practices as living heritage and their connections to sustainable development, sharing examples of preservation from communities and countries around the globe. It is expected to be unveiled by the end of 2026.
As anthropologist Miguel Hernández summarises, “culinary practices combine history, memory, environmental stewardship, cultural exchanges, economics, gender roles, and particular tastes, thus enabling the understanding of intangible cultural heritage as a resource for development, ensuring food security and facilitating community resilience against the challenges of modernity, globalisation, and climate change.”
